There is a reason we call these departures Magical Bandhavgarh.
Within our first 36 hours back in Bandhavgarh National Park, tiger sightings had already been abundant. Every drive carried that familiar feeling that something extraordinary could happen at any moment.
Then it did. Just thirty minutes into one of our first safaris, there she was. Dotty.
She emerged from the forest alongside two cubs, a sighting I had been hoping for ever since hearing from my guiding team that she had a new litter back in November.
For many people, it would simply be an unforgettable moment on a Tiger Safari in India. For me, it felt like seeing an old friend.
Thirteen years ago, I first saw Dotty as a tiny cub hidden deep in the undergrowth beside her family. At the time, I had already spent twenty-four game drives searching for tigers and had started to wonder if those famous stripes were little more than legends of India’s forests. Then Dotty appeared.
Over the years, I have watched her grow into one of the most remarkable tigresses Bandhavgarh has ever known. She has raised multiple successful litters, including D1, now one of the dominant males in the park, and females who hold territories of their own.
Now, at around thirteen years old, she is raising a third litter. To witness that continuity of life, strength, instinct and survival is something I never take for granted.
The Story That Keeps Bringing Me Back
The following days felt like turning the pages of a book I had been reading for over a decade.
One morning we spent time with D1, the dominant male from Dotty’s first litter. Powerful, confident and completely at ease in his territory, he stood as a living reminder of her legacy.
The next morning brought an altogether different encounter. We found Trident, a female from Dotty’s second litter, in the soft early morning light. For a few precious minutes it felt like we had the forest to ourselves. She paused frequently to scent-mark her territory, each movement deliberate and unhurried, before disappearing back into the trees.
These are the moments that make Bandhavgarh so special.
Not simply the sightings themselves, but the chance to follow generations of animals through their lives. To watch cubs become independent adults. To return season after season and find familiar faces waiting in the forest.
Many of my guests feel the same pull. They return not only hoping to see the tigers they remember, but also to meet the next generation.
The Leopard That Stole the Show
Of course, Bandhavgarh always finds ways to surprise us. The tigers delivered throughout the season, but for many guests it was a young leopard that completely stole the show.
Perched high in a tree for almost an entire day, it seemed entirely unbothered by our presence. While its mother and sibling remained hidden below, the young cat sat calmly in perfect view, occasionally shifting position.
In all my years guiding safaris, I have rarely seen a leopard display that level of confidence. Sometimes the forest decides what the highlight of the trip will be. This was one of those times.
Why Experience Matters
One of the reasons these moments happen so consistently is because of the people behind the scenes.
Our guiding team has spent countless hours guiding India Wildlife Safaris in these forests which they now know like the back of their hand. They know the individual animals, understand their territories and recognise subtle changes in behaviour long before most people would notice them.
Many visitors see a tiger appear on a road and assume it was luck. More often than not, there is far more going on.
A distant alarm call. Fresh tracks in the dust. The movement of langurs high in the canopy. A series of small clues that, when interpreted correctly, help build a picture of what may happen next.
This season provided many reminders of just how valuable that experience can be.
One morning, an unexpected flight change left us with a few spare hours before departure. After already spending more than thirteen hours in the park the previous day, I gave my group a choice: sleep in or head back out for one final drive.
True wildlife enthusiasts rarely need asking twice. Their enthusiasm was rewarded almost immediately. We encountered a young male tiger I had first seen a year earlier as a cub. One of the guests with me had been present for both sightings.
Seeing him again, older, stronger and noticeably more confident, just metres from where we first encountered him twelve months earlier, was a powerful reminder of how quickly time passes in the wild.
Life Beyond the Safari at Bagh Tola
Returning to Bagh Tola each season feels a little like coming home. After so many years leading groups through Bandhavgarh, the staff and guiding team have become more like family, and seeing familiar faces at the end of each drive is something I look forward to as much as the wildlife itself.
The hospitality here is exceptional, exactly what you’d hope for on a luxury safari in India, but it’s the warmth that stays with you. Evenings are spent sharing stories from the day over outstanding meals—everything from wood-fired pizzas to Burmese, Vietnamese, and Indian dishes—before turning in for another early start.
Why Bandhavgarh Is More Than Tiger Sightings
On any wildlife photography tour in India, I often encourage my guests to photograph more than the tiger itself.
The forests matter too. The hillsides. The light. The atmosphere. The landscapes these animals call home.
Bandhavgarh has a way of reminding you of that. As another season came to an end, I found myself reflecting on just how fortunate I am to spend time in these forests. The sightings are extraordinary, of course. But what stays with me most are the stories.
The stories of individual animals. The stories of returning guests. And the story of a forest that continues to evolve with every passing year.
And I already look forward to seeing what story Bandhavgarh tells next season. If you would like to join me to share in this magic next year or in 2028, click the link below to contact us!
SARA JENNER
